One of my favorite things of 2019 was surfing. Longboard surfing. VOLUME. Long and thick, light to carry and easy to paddle. I say this every time I get to the surf shop. I want a 9’2-9’6″ (longboard) that’s light to carry, easy to paddle with lots of volume. One of the surf guys likes to say, girrrl you want way too much as they shake their head and laugh.
Well the good news is that I know what I want (that’s half the battle). Took me a year to figure out what I like. Trying a new surfboard every time I’m sure is going to make me a better surfer (that’s what they keep telling me) haha! This yellow banana was light, easy to paddle and decent volume-nothing to brag about.
I’m ready to find a board of my own. Something that I can get cozy with. Riding a new board is exciting and a little wild because when I stand up I get to know how much rub she’s gunna give me. Sometimes, the rub is just right but sometimes it’s not enough and we struggle through the surf session. Such is life. It’s kinda like entering a new relationship and learning each other’s quirks in an hour session. Eyes closed, with my surf smile all over!
9’4 Yellow Banana longboard Donald Takayama
The best part about this surf day was when my iwatch popped off and I found it with my feet! Oh my grapes! For the first couple of months of surfing, I worried about my watch coming off while surfing. It’s never been an issue until this day. I yelled to my surf buddy near by, “can you dive?!” What, he yelled back as another wave was coming toward us. I lost my watch-can you dive? He said try and get it with your feet. So I did. I held onto my board and dropped down a couple of feet as the wave came over head, felt something and grabbed it with my toes. I pulled my foot out of the water and sure enough it was my watch. I was so stinking happy and proud of myself. I started cheering for myself because I was giddy. I’m so tough! I can’t believe that just worked out for me! I lost my watch and found it with my TOES while waves were tossing me around. And I did it all by myself. 🙂So happy to come in with my iwatch 🙂
Yoga toes baby!
Surfing with my iwatch is so fun! It’s really cool to record my wave speed and distance along with my daily activity credit.
I want to know, do you surf with a watch?
Hey surf mama…. Was good meeting you and Kai, hopefully he had a good time surfing… Here’s my number, if you wanna hit the surf next time your here… Jay 808.358.4435….